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Tonight’s beer is an old favorite, one of the first beers that challenged my ideas about what beer is and really blew me away. I’ve had some in the fridge since it came out in early April and recently realized I’ve been ignoring it, so tonight I decided to do a review of Dogfish Head’s Burton Baton. Dogfish Head (DFH from now on) is most well-known for big experimental beers. This is an article from November of last year which appeared in The New Yorker profiling DFH and Sam Calagione the founder and brewmaster.
Just looking at the bottle gives the impression that DFH puts a lot of careful thought into every beer they put out, the label proves to be both interesting and informative. The label says Burton Baton is a blend of fresh and wood-aged Imperial I.P.A.'s, presumably their popular 90 minute IPA. The Imperial IPA is a recent innovation in the beer world, supposedly invented by Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River Brewing Co. who’s Damnation was the subject of my first review. The Imperial IPA is just what it sounds like, the standard India Pale Ale turned up to 11. The Imperial IPA is all about big bold hops, with big maltiness to back it up and some big alcohol along for the ride. These are generally the kind of beers that you’ll spend a little time appreciating, nd at 10% abv this definitely falls in that category. Burton Baton is particularly interesting because they blend fresh Imperial IPA with Imperial IPA that has been aged on oak, which in theory creates a deeper more complex flavor profile, while retaining fresh hoppy qualities.
Burton Baton pours into my glass a brilliantly clear, beautiful garnet color, producing a two-finger thick head that diminishes to a solid cap, but leaves a “grandma’s-couch-arm-doily” looking trail of lace down the sides of the glass. Very nice looking beer. Up front in the nose is a ton of piney and minty hops, there’s a note in the smell that almost makes me think of candied orange sections. Behind all that is a collection of malty maple syrup and caramel-like notes. As the beer gets warmer and warmer the alcohol slowly uncovers itself.
The taste is filled with minty and piney, floral hoppiness up front that slowly envelops the palate, its not intensely bitter, just flavorful. Second, this pleasant earthy, wood flavor opens up more and more with each sip. The wood lends flavors of vanilla and assists in bolstering the malt presence, accentuating the caramel and maple flavors. In the background is the sort of tart fruitiness you would get from a really dark chocolate. (~80% cacao) The alcohol at 10% eventually does show itself, it doesn’t become hot and harsh on the palate, but it does come through with that satisfying warming feeling in the chest. That’s good for two reasons, because its nice and comforting, and also because it doesn’t let you forget the power of what you’re drinking, reminding you to sip. I often think oak-aged IPA's get sort of muddled and lose a lot of what makes them great, but maybe because of the blending in Burton Baton, the woodiness here is fantastic! I agree with the bottle, which says "lush" right on it. Burton Baton is very smooth, with just the right amount of carbonation to keep this full bodied beer from feeling thick or heavy. At 10% abv, and with the alcohol presence, this is definitely a sipper, but with the wonderful complex flavors flowing around, it's not a bad thing at all. The alcohol creates a brightness which just adds another layer to this already complex beer.
I’d like to be able to give you some alternatives, but its not easy to do tonight. Southern Tier Brewing Co. recently released an oak-aged version of their Un*Earthly Double IPA, for me it was overly sweet, but I also know it isn’t rare for something to be too sweet for me which other people like just fine. Also, if you live in California or Nevada, I’d recommend Firestone Walker’s Double Barrel Ale, which is an oak-aged English Pale ale, the English versions are less hoppy and also at 5% abv its like the more easy drinking, sessionable counterpoint to Burton Baton, its also fantastic. Dogfish Head is distributed in 25 states, spread out from coast-to-coast, and though it’s an occasional release, there’s a good chance you can still pick this up. I love this beer its unique, complex and wonderfully flavorful. No question about it. If you’re into bold rich flavor, to be savored while relaxing at the end of the day, this is not a beer to pass up.
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written by Joeprah, July 10, 2009
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